Public Transport
There are numerous private and state-owned city buses in Istanbul, however, because of perpetual traffic jams, these are slow, uncomfortable and usually over-crowded, with service coming to a virtual halt at midnight. A new underground (metro) system from Taksim to Levent, the city's busiest business district has recently opened.
There are two tramways on the European side. One runs from Eminonu through Sultanahmet and onto the outer suburbs. It divides at Aksaray, where visitors should change trains to get to Esenler Otagar, the bus station. The other is mainly for tourists and runs the length of Istiklal Caddesi from Beyoglu to Taksim Square using turn-of-the-century trams. It is connected to Karakoy by the Tunel underground, built in 1877 and known to be the shortest in the world.
Metro and tramway information is available tel: (212) 568 9970). Bus and tram tickets, about US$0.50 each, are usually available near the main stops, either from a kiosk or a private seller, who adds about 25% to the price. An akbil (electronic token) can also be purchased in advance, for a few trips at a slightly better rate. It is good for buses, ferries, the Tunel and the metro.
Passenger ferries, however, are by far the most pleasant way to travel in Istanbul. These zip back and forth across the waterways and service many useful destinations. Tokens are readily available from the dockside kiosks. The primary routes run roughly every twenty minutes between about 0700 and 2300, although the Eminonu-Kadikoy service stops at 2000. There are numerous docks along Eminonu quay, including ferries to Uskudar, Kadikoy and Besiktas, and car ferries to the Prince's Islands. Services from Karakoy run to Haydarpasa Station and the residential suburb of Kadikoy.
There is also a private boat service between Uskudar and Besiktas, which runs every ten minutes during the day and whenever it fills up after midnight.
Taxis
Yellow taxis line up in ranks in front of ferry terminals and can be hailed almost anywhere in the street. However, it is safest to order them from a hotel, which minimizes the chance of being cheated. The meters should begin at about US$0.75 going up 50% after midnight. Visitors should watch for drivers trying to put the night meter on during the day. 'Gunduz' means day and 'gece' night, digitally displayed on the meter; alternatively one light indicates day meter and two lights night meter. Tips are not expected unless special service has been provided, and there is no extra charge for more than one person or for luggage.
The dolmus (shared taxi) is either a large, modern yellow mini-van, which runs a predetermined, short, circular route, such as Taksim-Besiktas and Taksim-Nisantasi or a smaller, rickety blue minibus, which does longer journeys within the city. The latter can be hailed almost anywhere and will cram as many standing passengers in as will possibly fit. Payment is in cash when boarding and costs about the same price as a bus ticket.
There is also a Marine Taxi service available from Bebek, an upmarket Bosphorus village above Arnavutkoy tel: (212) 287 1121.
Driving in the City:
Istanbul is home to bad traffic jams and extremely bad driving. Generally, driving is not recommended. For the adventurous, car rental is provided by:
Avis (212) 663 0646
Budget (212) 296 3196 or 253 9200
Europcar (212) 663 0858 or 254 7799
Hertz (212) 234 4304
Rates start at about $75 a day or $300 a week. Drivers must be over 21 years, have held a license for at least one year and have a credit card or substantial sum of money to leave as a deposit. Basic insurance is covered in the cost, but visitors should make sure that Collision Damage Waiver is included, as it may well be needed.
